Pantries & Larders: Design & Cost

A well-planned pantry is one of the most practical additions to a UK kitchen. Whether you have a spare alcove, a redundant understairs space, or room to extend, dedicated food storage pays dividends every day, reducing worktop clutter, cutting food waste, and keeping perishables at the right temperature without running the fridge harder.

Before committing to a layout, it helps to understand the three main forms: the larder cupboard (a tall, fixed unit within the kitchen), the walk-in pantry (a small dedicated room or large alcove), and the butler’s pantry (a separate prep and storage room, common in Victorian houses). Each has different space demands, costs, and design considerations.

Types of Pantry Explained

Larder cupboard, the most accessible option, built into the kitchen run as a tall floor-to-ceiling unit (typically 600mm deep, 600–900mm wide). Modern larder units from kitchen manufacturers include pull-out drawers, carousel shelves, and door-mounted racks. Cost: £400–£1,500 supplied, plus fitting.

Walk-in pantry, a small room or deep alcove with shelving on three walls. The minimum usable depth for a single-wall walk-in is 900mm (shelving + standing space); for a U-shaped layout you need at least 1,500mm between opposing shelves to pass comfortably. Widths from 1,200mm upward are workable; 1,800–2,400mm is ideal.

Butler’s pantry, a separate room (often 4–10m²) between kitchen and dining room, originally used to store crockery, glassware, and silverware. Today it typically includes a prep sink, worktop, appliance storage, and wine or drinks storage. Budget £5,000–£15,000+ depending on finishes and plumbing.

Dimensions and Layout

For shelving depth, 300–350mm suits tins, jars, and everyday dry goods. Deeper shelves (450–500mm) accommodate bulk buys and appliances but make items at the back hard to reach, pull-out drawers or pull-out shelving systems solve this.

Shelf spacing of 250–300mm works for most grocery items; allow 400mm for cereal boxes and 500mm for large appliances if storing a stand mixer or air fryer.

Shelving Options

Fixed timber or MDF shelving, the cheapest option, typically painted MDF on brackets. Sturdy and paintable to match the kitchen. No flexibility once fitted. Materials: £80–£200 for a small walk-in.

Adjustable shelving systems, slotted uprights (such as Spur or Häfele-style systems) allow shelves to be repositioned as needs change. Slightly more expensive but practical for a growing household. £150–£800 fitted, depending on size.

Bespoke joinery, painted or hardwood shelving built to the exact space, including integrated spice racks, wine slots, labelled sections, and integrated lighting. Adds significantly to cost but maximises every centimetre. £800–£3,000+ depending on size and detail.

Flat-pack larder units, IKEA SEKTION, Howdens, or B&Q cabinetry in a walk-in role. Quicker to install and replaceable, but don’t always suit irregular spaces. £300–£800 in materials.

Ventilation and Temperature

A pantry works best when it stays cool, dark and dry, well below normal room temperature, which helps onions, hard cheeses, wine, and certain fruit keep without refrigeration. Achieving this in a UK home requires some planning. Potatoes are the exception to old larder habits: current advice from Love Food Hate Waste is to keep them in the fridge, below 5°C, where they stay fresh for longer.¹

North- or east-facing external walls tend to stay coolest year-round. Avoid south-facing rooms or spaces adjacent to the boiler.

Passive ventilation, a small air brick or ventilation grille to the outside, is the traditional solution. Modern equivalents include a 100mm through-wall vent with a louvre on the outside; these can be fitted by a competent DIYer and cost £20–£60 in materials.

In a larder cupboard within a heated kitchen, cooling is harder. Some manufacturers offer integrated ventilation slots at the back panel linking to an external airbrick; check with your kitchen supplier. Failing that, keep the cupboard away from the oven and fridge motor sides.

Fit-Out Costs (UK, 2026)

These figures exclude structural alterations. If your walk-in pantry involves removing a wall, forming a new doorway, or converting a WC, you will need a builder and potentially Building Regulations approval. Part A (structure) applies where a load-bearing wall is altered, and Part P (electrics) makes the work notifiable only if a new circuit is added for lighting or sockets.²

Planning Considerations

A pantry formed by internal remodelling, removing or altering non-load-bearing partitions, does not typically require planning permission.³ However:

• Listed buildings: any alteration, inside or out, that would affect the building’s character needs Listed Building Consent.⁴ Being in a conservation area does not on its own bring internal work under planning control.³ Check with your local planning authority.
• Building Regulations (Part A): removing or altering a load-bearing wall to create a pantry space is a material alteration under the Building Regulations, so it needs a Building Control application, and in practice a structural engineer’s design for the beam or lintel.⁵
• Part P (Electrics): a new circuit for pantry lighting or sockets is notifiable, so it must be carried out by a registered competent person, who self-certifies it, or notified to Building Control before work starts.² Extending an existing circuit outside a bathroom is not notifiable, though it must still be done safely.²
• Building Regulations (Part F, Ventilation): Approved Document F expects extract ventilation in wet rooms, meaning rooms used for activities such as cooking, clothes washing and bathing.⁶ A pantry used only for storage is not one, but a butler’s pantry used for cooking may be, so check with Building Control if the work includes one.

Design Tips

Light it well. A dark pantry quickly becomes a graveyard for forgotten tins. LED strip lights under shelves (IP20 rated for dry spaces) are inexpensive (£30–£80 for a small space) and transform usability. Add a PIR sensor for hands-free operation.

Label and zone. Divide the pantry into zones: baking, tins, dry goods, snacks, drinks, cleaning products (stored low and separately). Chalk-paint labels on timber fronts or adhesive labels on shelf edges cost almost nothing and save time daily.

Include a worktop if space allows. Even 400mm of depth in a butler’s pantry or deep walk-in gives you a place to prep and stage items for cooking without cluttering the main kitchen.

Think about humidity. Root vegetables prefer cool and slightly humid storage; bread goes stale faster in humid conditions. A ventilated vegetable basket or a lidded bread bin solves this without complex fitouts.

Don’t over-specify shelving for day one. Start with a basic adjustable system and add pull-out drawers, wine racks, or door organisers once you have lived with the space for a few months.

A pantry that matches your actual shopping and cooking habits will outperform an aspirational design every time.